Abstract
The intersection of global fashion with traditional Indian craftsmanship has often been a concerning matter of intellectual property protection. The controversy surrounding the launch of “leather sandals” by Prada which is strikingly resembles the Kolhapuri chappals at Milan Fashion Week 2025 has highlighted the gap in the existing laws regarding the protection of local traditional crafts in the global arena. This incident brings outs the gap in the existing framework governing Geographical Indications (GI). While Kolhapuri chappals are protected under the GI regime of India, the absence of explicit use of the GI name or indication of its origin by the foreign entities raises the question whether imitation of design alone constitute infringement of the same.
This article examines the scope of protection provided under the governing domestic laws and international instruments like the TRIPS Agreement, analysing whether the current provisions adequately address the cultural appropriation through imitation of design. Furthermore, this article argues that the existing legal framework does not adequately provide protection to the artisans and is limited in its scope when misappropriation occurs without misrepresentation or consumer deception.
This article delves into how GI protection remains constricted to names and indications rather than the underlying cultural expression and craftsmanship. Through analysis of some case laws, international obligations and statutory provisions, this article provides for expanded international protection mechanisms, including the extension of domestic GI safeguards beyond the wines and spirits and the development of a sui-generis system to prevent further infringement and for the preservation of traditional cultural expressions in a globalised market.
Keywords: Kolhapuri chappals, Prada, Leather Sandals, Origin, Geographical Indications, Mimicry, Imitation, Design, Infringement,Explicit, Handcrafted, TRIPS Agreement, WIPO, WTO.
The Runway Meets the Roots: Unveiling the Prada-Kolhapuri Incident
In mid-2025, at Milan Fashion Week, Prada unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection which included sandals that bore a striking resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals – handcrafted artisanal footwear with cultural roots in Maharashtra, India. Though protected under India’s GI law, Kolhapuri chappals appeared on a runway without collaboration or attribution with the indigenous artisans. Though the product was simply labelled as “leather sandals” and made no explicit claim of Kolhapuri origin, the resemblance sparked controversy among the public. Although Prada has now acknowledged the Indian inspiration behind the design, it follows significant social media backlash alleging cultural misappropriation and infringement of GI laws. Despite GI protection under Indian law, it remains unclear how such safeguards can be enforced when foreign designers with greater resources produce close imitations. This incident raises a crucial question in public international law: can “design mimicry” or “evocation” amount to violation of international obligations, especially when the GI name or origin is not invoked explicitly?
This article argues that while domestic GI registration provides a base, it is insufficient for curbing fashion industry appropriation. It aims to find out whether international law relating to protection of traditional designs provides protection when a foreign brand copies a traditional design or style even if the GI name or origin is not mentioned or used explicitly.